The Rise of Celebrity Winemakers
In recent years, there has been a remarkable increase in the number of celebrities and fashion designers venturing into the world of winemaking. This trend reached new heights when those in New York’s natural wine community discovered that Jean Touitou, the visionary founder of the minimalist fashion label A.P.C., was set to showcase 60 bottles of his creation, Jean Touitou Banibano, at Brooklyn’s Marlow & Sons on Halloween. This revelation certainly piqued interest and raised eyebrows among wine enthusiasts.
However, it’s essential to note that Touitou’s endeavor is far from the typical celebrity wine brand. This is not a mass-produced rosé like Jon Bon Jovi’s Hamptons Water, nor is it a product simply adorned with a label designed by a high-profile designer like Donatella Versace. Instead, much like his establishment of Atélier de Production et de Création in Paris back in 1986, Touitou’s venture into winemaking reflects his dedication to creating what he perceives as lacking in the world: products that are simple yet crafted with care and precision.
At 72 years old, Mr. Touitou humbly rejects the notion of being labeled a celebrity. “When I attend a fashion show, no paparazzi recognize me,” he remarked during a recent interview conducted in English at the Mercer Hotel in Lower Manhattan. “In that realm, I have achieved my goals.”
Furthermore, Touitou does not classify himself as a winemaker in the traditional sense. Instead, he views his work with Jean Touitou Banibano as a distinct endeavor. “There are many terms in today’s cultural lexicon that I simply do not comprehend,” he explained. “To me, a celebrity should embody a unique and profound cultural insight.”
With a chuckle, he continued, “But a celebrity who exists solely for the sake of being a celebrity? That’s an entirely different story.”
Regarding the trend of lucrative names simply slapping their signatures on a bottle produced by a supplier, he stated, “That’s not a true journey. It’s merely a phone call between two savvy agents, with one of them knowing a friend in the South of France.”
