The Arrival of Jokichi Takamine

On a crisp afternoon in February 1891, a Japanese chemist by the name of Jokichi Takamine stepped off a train in Peoria, Illinois. Invited by the Distilling and Cattle Feeding Company, which was the largest spirits producer in America at that time, he brought with him a groundbreaking approach to whiskey production. His innovative method involved using a type of mold known as koji to initiate fermentation, a stark departure from the traditional malting techniques employed by Western distillers.

The Promise of Koji

Takamine’s process held the promise of increasing whiskey yields by an impressive 10 percent or more, a breakthrough that could have translated into substantial profits for both the distillers and himself. Unfortunately, the company, often referred to as the Whiskey Trust, was mired in corruption and ultimately collapsed before Takamine could implement his process. As a result, both Dr. Takamine and his revolutionary koji process faded into obscurity.

A Revival of Koji-Based Whiskeys

In recent years, however, a resurgence of koji-based whiskeys has emerged, making their way onto liquor store shelves and into the cocktail menus of upscale bars across the United States. This revival is not driven by efficiency but rather by a quest for unique flavors. The koji fermentation process results in a spirit that strikes a delightful balance between savory richness and elegant floral notes. It retains the character of whiskey while offering an experience that is distinctly its own.

The Experience of Koji Whiskey

“Koji whiskey is remarkably soft on the palate, lacking the oiliness often associated with traditional whiskeys, and it delivers a mellow finish,” noted Mike Vacheresse, one of the proprietors of Travel Bar in Brooklyn, a venue that proudly serves a selection of koji-based spirits.