The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: A New Era of Sustainable Innovation
The prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), often referred to as the “Oscars of the watchmaking world,” is set to take place on 13 November. This year, a new award for “eco-innovation” will be introduced, recognizing one of the 90 competing timepieces that emphasize sustainability and traceability in their watchmaking developments. Previously known simply as “innovation,” this award reflects the industry’s ongoing commitment to environmental responsibility.
IWC Schaffhausen has already made headlines by announcing a patent-pending luminous ceramic that will soon make its debut in their forthcoming watches. This innovation is just one example of the many advancements being made in the industry.
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In 2020, H. Moser & Cie showcased a remarkable watch featuring a Vantablack dial, a material that absorbs an astounding 99.965% of visible light, making it the darkest material available today. The past decade has seen exciting developments in precious materials, such as sapphire cases and scratchproof gold. While the watchmaking industry has no shortage of new materials, the introduction of the eco-innovation category at GPHG will likely sharpen the focus on sustainable materials and their reduced environmental impact.
Sustainable Innovation Takes Center Stage
Maximilian Büsser, the CEO of independent watch brand MB&F, emphasizes the importance of placing sustainability at the forefront of innovation in watchmaking. “At MB&F, we are passionate about creating and experimenting,” he explains. “Over the years, we have been pioneers in using materials like Zirconium and Palladium for our cases. We have also pushed the limits of sapphire crystal manufacturing, allowing us to create intricate case shapes that were once deemed impossible. Our goal is to find materials that can be restored and refurbished a century from now, ensuring that our creations can endure for generations.”
Additionally, the market is witnessing a rise in sustainable strap materials. ID Genève, the only B Corp-certified Swiss luxury watch brand, launched its new Elements collection in August, offering straps made from grape leather, vegetal rubber, and a revolutionary hemp-based material with a felt texture developed by material innovation company Revoltech.
Julien Tornare, CEO of Hublot, recently returned from Mexico, where the brand celebrated the introduction of a new plant-based leather strap. “We launched a limited-edition strap made from cactus leather,” he shared. “This sustainable approach resonates with local culture, as cactus is a vital element in Mexican traditions. It perfectly embodies Hublot’s philosophy of fusing materials and cultures in a way that has never been done before.”
Tackling Environmental Concerns
The urgent need to lessen reliance on cattle farming—a sector that the UN Food and Agriculture Organization estimates contributes about 7% of global greenhouse gas emissions—has catalyzed a burgeoning market for alternative materials. Luxury watches, with their higher price points and limited production quantities, serve as ideal canvases for material innovators. Many emerging materials come at a premium, reflecting the substantial investment in research and development required, and have yet to scale to meet the leather demands of larger industries like fashion, interiors, and automotive.
Tornare notes that this approach not only benefits the environment but also helps to attract a younger demographic. “Gen Z is looking for watches that align with contemporary lifestyles,” he states. “It’s crucial to demonstrate that the watchmaking industry is evolving. By introducing new materials and technical advancements, we aim to show them that our industry is very much alive.”
Ulysse Nardin is also making strides in sustainable innovation, focusing on creating products with a lower environmental footprint that still perform exceptionally. The brand recently unveiled what it describes as its most sustainable watch to date, made almost entirely from recycled materials, including steel and a silicon escapement. The Diver Net Vendée Globe watch commemorates the 10th anniversary of the Vendée Globe and incorporates upcycled carbon fiber sourced from a shipbuilder known for constructing boats used in the race, along with textiles made from repurposed fishing nets, thereby enhancing the narrative behind the timepiece.
Jean-Christophe Sabatier, chief product officer at Ulysse Nardin, emphasizes the importance of leading by example in the luxury watch industry. “While our industry’s carbon footprint is relatively low, producing more sustainable products can create a ripple effect,” he explains. “If we can demonstrate that luxury items made from recycled materials are desirable, we can promote the necessity for meaningful change.”
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Sabatier also observes that their suppliers are increasingly seeking to implement sustainable practices since these conversations began. As new materials continue to emerge, the creative momentum in the watchmaking industry shows no signs of waning. Sabatier anticipates future innovations aimed at eliminating plastics and reducing the environmental impact of gold and sapphire production.
At Hublot, Tornare, who began his role in September, sees the exploration of innovative materials as central to the brand’s future. “Hublot has a rich history of developing watches in sapphire and ceramic. I’m excited about the prospect of introducing a new material that will surprise everyone. This is a journey I am eager to embark upon.”
