The Shifting Landscape of Hotel Dining
“Did you notice that this restaurant has two entrances?” Maria Joao Galante, the Director of PR & Communications at the Corinthia Hotel in Lisbon, inquires. I must admit, I hadn’t. While this might seem like a trivial observation, it is actually pivotal in understanding the evolving cultural dynamics surrounding dining experiences. Seated in the bright and inviting ambiance of Erva, the ground-floor restaurant of the luxurious hotel, I realize that the restaurant presents itself as a standalone entity, separate from the hotel. This intentional design choice of having two entrances signifies a broader trend in the hospitality industry.
Erva serves as an exemplary model of the promising future for in-house hotel restaurants. A recent report indicates that dining in hotels is projected to experience substantial growth by 2025. The Expedia Group, a leader in travel technology, analyzed first-party travel data from 25,000 travelers, uncovering emerging travel trends for the upcoming years, with hotel dining gaining particular prominence. “When booking hotels, travelers are not merely reserving rooms; they’re also securing dinner reservations,” the study reveals. “Globally, hotels have launched critically acclaimed restaurants featuring Michelin-starred chefs and seasonal menus to entice both guests and locals alike.”
Galante elaborates on the transformation, stating, “We revamped the concept, redesigned the interior, and trained the staff. We even provided independent entrances so that patrons wouldn’t feel as though they were dining in a hotel.” The restaurant’s aesthetic embodies a polished rusticity, with brass lighting and copper cookware framing the open kitchen. “Our grandmothers used to cook with pans like this,” she remarks as the exquisite cod tempura is served. “Hotels are increasingly looking to engage with the local community to welcome residents as diners.” This shift goes beyond mere aesthetics; staff training has been crucial in redefining the dining experience. Traditional uniforms of white shirts and black trousers have been replaced with rolled-up sleeves and aprons, fostering a more relaxed and approachable atmosphere. “We aim for our staff to be lively and engaging, interacting with guests in a friendly manner,” Galante shares, noting that the team was initially “skeptical about this cultural shift.” Breaking away from decades of formal 5-star hotel service is no small feat, but the interactions I experienced with the Corinthia team were effortless, enjoyable, and impressively efficient.
The restaurant’s signature dish is the slow-cooked ribs, which the waiter expertly carves right at the table, adding a touch of theater to the dining experience that enhances communication between staff and diners. The kitchen, led by talented chefs Miguel Teixeira and JoĂ£o Moreira, consistently delivers remarkable cuisine. The menu is refreshed monthly, spotlighting different regions of Portugal, reinforcing the idea that the dining experience should resonate with the local culture.
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Many hotels have found that guests typically dine in the on-site restaurant only once during their stay, and the aim is to double that frequency. By offering a well-curated array of dishes that authentically represent the region, these establishments hope to compete with what many diners, including myself, have often viewed as more genuine local offerings — places outside hotel walls.
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Doug Larmour, an Oscar and Emmy-winning visual effects supervisor, frequently finds himself in hotels for extended stays due to filming commitments worldwide. “If a hotel features a fine dining restaurant with a solid reputation, I’m eager to experience it. However, these restaurants can be hard to book, and the cost of dining there might not be suitable for regular visits,” he explains to Euronews Culture. “Everyone wants variety in their meals, and a restaurant focused solely on a particular chef’s style may not offer the diverse flavors that guests seek.” Larmour appreciates luxury hotel dining, recognizing that having a noteworthy restaurant on-site is a significant convenience when looking for exceptional food. “Successful large hotels typically offer multiple dining experiences at various price points, keeping guests intrigued. If they boast a top-tier restaurant, they would be pleased if I visited it twice during a week while also exploring their other dining options,” he adds.
During one of Larmour’s extended stays, he experienced the five-star Mandala Hotel in Berlin, just a stone’s throw from Potsdamer Platz. Their FACIL restaurant, a two-Michelin-star establishment, is helmed by the skilled chef Michael Kempf. His dish featuring Faroe Island langoustine is both flavorful and peppery, complemented by a beautifully crafted oatcake with pointed cabbage and corn, paired perfectly with a 2019 Kirchberg Sylvaner from Porzelt — a remarkable example of its varietal. The experience at FACIL is described as having “unexpected elegance,” which is certainly fitting for a two-star restaurant.
However, one might wonder if the hotel atmosphere enhances or detracts from the dining experience. The restaurant’s linear design promotes clarity and ease of movement, yet it lacks warmth and emotional resonance. One might question whether this reflects the less approachable side of traditional fine dining or if it mirrors contemporary cultural trends. The stark lighting and glass roof, supported by elegantly draped pillars, evoke a sense of anticipation, as if revealing something intimate and inviting. A marble back panel gives the space a sense of solidity, while a central water feature infuses freshness and light.
The cuisine, however, bursts with color, passion, and finesse, creating a striking contrast to the somewhat sterile environment. A standout dish is the caviar presentation, featuring Imperial Caviar Auslese ‘Shanghai’. A layer of creamy buttermilk with tofu sits beneath a combination of fried and stewed cauliflower mushroom, elegantly topped with Osteria caviar, all resting in a delicate turbot broth enriched with fig leaf oil. The seamless balance of delicacy and flavor, along with the silky texture, is invigorated by a zesty old vine white field blend. This dish exemplifies the idea that while traditional fine dining may evolve, the skill and quality of ingredients will always captivate an audience.
Eating Out vs. Eating In
The recent study indicates a significant trend, revealing that “positive reviews regarding hotel restaurants, chefs, and bars increased by 40% year-on-year on Hotels.com.” This could imply that diners are becoming more accustomed to sharing their experiences post-visit, or it may simply reflect a hospitality industry that is increasingly getting it right. Additionally, the report notes that “nearly a third of British travelers indicated that restaurant tables reserved exclusively for hotel guests would make them more likely to book a stay.” Larmour agrees, stating, “Top hotels should consider setting aside reservations exclusively for their guests to encourage them to dine within the hotel.”
At the Mandala, I was pleasantly surprised to find that breakfast was served in FACIL the following morning. Larmour shared his discomfort with this arrangement, noting, “Hotels must find a way to separate the breakfast experience from the fine dining atmosphere. Guests often find it challenging to reconcile paying a premium for a meal in the same setting where they enjoyed a simple breakfast just hours earlier.” The environment plays a crucial role in a diner’s experience, and one hotel that possesses a distinct advantage is Lisbon’s five-star Altis Avenida.
While not Michelin-rated, the Rossio Gastrobar offers a refreshing dining experience with stunning views of the city. Executive chef JoĂ£o Correia candidly discusses the challenges chefs face within hotel settings. “The landscape is changing,” he asserts, “and that’s why I’m committed to staying here.” He explains, “I have the freedom to create my own dishes and source exceptional ingredients, like Toro, the premium fatty tuna, which costs around 800 euros a kilo. It’s crucial to gain the trust of management to pursue this vision.”
From the bar’s vantage point overlooking Dom Pedro IV Square, where a national theater resides within a beautifully restored 19th-century palace, the views are breathtaking. To the east, the castle stands illuminated atop one of Lisbon’s many hills, while as dusk settles, the Tagus River fades into darkness, interrupted only by the occasional flash of aircraft lights.
As I savor the tuna belly accompanied by smoked dashi jus, the chef explains, “Smoke heightens the palate and enhances the beverages.” The quality of the tuna belly underscores Rossio’s commitment to culinary excellence, while the hamachi, elegantly sliced and bathed in olive oil and coriander, showcases Correia’s affinity for fish and Japanese culinary techniques. This rooftop bar transcends the typical hotel dining experience, aligning perfectly with Maria Galante’s vision at the Corinthia — to entice guests to return, not just once but multiple times. I suspect that upon my next visit, I too will find myself drawn back again and again.