The glistening domes of St. Mark’s Basilica rise majestically over Venice’s largest square, capturing the essence of the city’s rich history and cultural vibrancy. During the 19th century, when the church had already stood for nearly a millennium, a stunning mosaic was added above the main entrance. This artwork depicts two angels gracefully hovering near Jesus, each blowing trumpets that herald the Last Judgment. Its striking placement is impossible to overlook and serves as a powerful symbol of music’s enduring significance in a city that has nurtured musical giants from the era of Vivaldi, Gabrieli, Monteverdi, and Cavalli to modern masters like Luigi Nono.
On a recent Thursday evening, the atmosphere inside the basilica was electric. Under the auspices of the Venice Music Biennale, two choirs, positioned high in the lofts, faced each other across the resplendent gold interior. They filled the vast expanse of the basilica with a moving performance of “Stabat Mater” by Giovanni Croce, a composition originally crafted for this very sacred space some 425 years ago.
Today, however, Venice has increasingly become recognized as an art town. Every two years, the city welcomes throngs of visitors who flood its floating labyrinth of winding alleys and tranquil canals for the enormous and prestigious Venice Art Biennale. This seven-month-long event is one of the defining milestones in the global visual arts calendar. In 2022, ticket sales soared past 800,000, and this year’s iteration continues to captivate audiences through November 24.
Alongside the visual arts, the Venice Music Biennale flourishes under the same umbrella as its renowned counterparts. While the Venice Film Festival enjoys worldwide fame, many may be unaware that the Biennale also encompasses festivals dedicated to architecture, dance, theater, and, notably, music. As autumn begins to cloak the city in cooler temperatures and the crowds begin to thin, the music biennial unfolds over a two-week span filled with approximately hour-long performances. Earlier this month, I had the pleasure of attending nine captivating concerts over the course of five days.
Much like its art festival counterpart, the Music Biennale extends beyond traditional concert halls to embrace the charm of Venice’s palazzos and historic churches. While it has a base at the Arsenale, a complex of historic shipyards and factories, it spills out across the city for site-specific concerts. Highlights include multichoral pieces resonating within St. Mark’s Basilica, delicate viola da gamba duets performed in the ornate 16th-century Marciana Library, and grand ensembles gracing the gilded halls of the Fenice opera house.