Thanksgiving Reflections and Culinary Inspirations

Vaughn Vreeland’s coffee and maple chess pie is a delightful treat that embodies the spirit of the season. Credit to Linda Xiao for The New York Times, with food styling by Samantha Seneviratne and prop styling by Paige Hicks.

My first encounter with mashed potatoes happened when I was just 16 years old. Growing up, my family had a tradition of opting for a rice stuffing during Thanksgiving, a recipe inspired by my mom that resembles Genevieve Ko’s approach. However, that particular year, I was invited to celebrate the holiday with a friend’s family, and I remember indulging in three generous helpings of those creamy, buttery potatoes. It was a revelation.

As I ventured into adulthood, many of my Thanksgivings were spent traveling with the ballet company I danced with. The culinary details from those days are somewhat hazy, overshadowed by the generous spreads at various hotels. Yet, what I vividly recall is the camaraderie among my fellow dancers. We would squeeze into conference rooms, our bodies weary from “Nutcracker” rehearsals but our spirits high, eagerly sharing laughter and plucking faux snow from each other’s hair as we settled down for a meal together.

Now, as the host of Thanksgiving dinner, I relish the opportunity to curate a feast that celebrates my favorite flavors while incorporating seasonal ingredients, my Japanese heritage, and the essence of my grandma’s roots in Hilo, Hawaii. Last year, my menu featured a delightful array of dishes: furikake party mix, shoyu chicken, creamy mac salad, a vibrant kale salad adorned with dried cranberries and sweet onion dressing, tangy kimchi, and takuan. I also had a Zojirushi filled with perfectly cooked white rice, complemented by kabocha pumpkin pie and a rich pandan Basque cheesecake for dessert.

What I want to convey is this: there are no strict rules when it comes to Thanksgiving. If you’re fortunate enough, it’s a chance to prepare the dishes you adore, just the way you like them. It’s a time to indulge, to enjoy the fullness that comes with a good meal, and to gather your loved ones in one space, regardless of the dynamics. Alternatively, if a large gathering isn’t feasible, it can simply be a serene Thursday evening where you treat yourself to the dinner of your dreams, savoring the quiet comfort of your own company.

Thanksgiving is a celebration of cooking what you love. And let me tell you, my love for pie knows no bounds.

Introducing Your New Thanksgiving Pies

In a delightful twist, Vaughn Vreeland — known for his Cookie Week and salted margarita bars — has presented us with six enticing new pies to consider for our holiday feasts. Honestly, I find it challenging to choose just one! Will it be the butterscotch banana cream pie, the refreshing cranberry citrus meringue pie, or perhaps the intriguing sesame swirled pumpkin pie? (Yes, please!)

This coconut caramel tart is reminiscent of a giant Girl Scout cookie, sure to please any sweet tooth, while the pomegranate cardamom apple pie promises to be a stunning showcase for the Honeycrisp apples I’ve been obsessed with. Among these tempting options, Vaughn describes the coffee and maple chess pie as akin to “enjoying maple-soaked pancakes alongside a warm cup of coffee.” It’s the perfect idea, considering that the only thing that could possibly outshine pie for dessert is pie enjoyed for breakfast.