New Culinary Experiences in New York City
Time and Tide
The halibut pithivier at Time and Tide is a true culinary spectacle. Credit: Jeenah Moon for The New York Times
Jamal James Kent and his executive chef, Danny Garcia, meticulously crafted the vision for this restaurant before Mr. Kent’s untimely passing last spring. The menu embraces a steakhouse philosophy, applying it to seafood with simplicity and elegance. Expect a delightful array of sauces and sides, with certain fish being dry-aged much like fine meats. “It’s all about flavor,” Mr. Garcia elaborated, discussing the unique preparation of the fish. “The fat beneath the skin seeps into the flesh.” A standout dish is the halibut, which occupies a majestic pithivier, set to impress diners. Kent Hospitality’s Harrison Ginsberg oversees the beverage program while Renata Ameni manages pastry, including Baby Birdee, a retail bakery set to launch later. The spacious dining room is adorned with rich woodland green corduroy banquettes and features a striking wall of concrete blocks, backlit in dynamic hues reminiscent of the artist James Turrell’s work.
Opens Wednesday
48 East 26th Street, 212-257-7677, timeandtide.nyc.
Soso’s
The South SoHo Bar is seamlessly merging into this charming New York-style tavern located next door. This venture is also from Tuxedo Hospitality, presenting classic cocktails alongside an enticing menu that features oysters, steak tartare, various salads, roast chicken, and a surprise burger that isn’t listed. The atmosphere is delightfully retro. Executive chef Paul Donnelly, who also lends his talents to Chinese Tuxedo and The Tyger under the same ownership, collaborates with head chef Luka Coyne, who hails from Australia.
Opens Thursday
191 Centre Street (Canal Street), sosos.nyc.
Masa Madre
The bagel may hold the title of a New York icon, yet the croissant is on the rise. For any new bakery, perfecting the flake and golden-brown sheen of its French breakfast pastry is essential. This newly opened bakery in Queens, founded by restaurateur Jose Luis Flores, delivers exceptional croissants, whether plain or almond. Alongside these, you’ll find delightful Mexican conchas, churros, Colombian pan de bono, and a tender, sesame-studded Guatemalan sourdough torta. Starting this week, the bakery will also feature pan de muerto for Day of the Dead—a luscious, sugar-dusted pull-apart hillock, subtly decorated with a cross.
Location
47-55 46th Street (48th Avenue), Woodside, Queens, 347-527-2145, masasunnyside.com.
Twin Tails
At Twin Tails, diners can embark on a flavorful journey through Southeast Asia, marking a first for the Quality Branded group, situated directly across from the company’s Bad Roman at the Columbus Circle mall. Chef and partner Craig Koketsu leads the culinary charge with a focus primarily on the vibrant cuisines of Thailand and Vietnam. Highlights include dishes like Ho Chi Minh City with Cholon duck, North Vietnamese banh cuon rice rolls, Issan laab meatballs, and pad kra pao, a classic Thai stir-fry featuring egg. Diners can also savor crispy garlic shrimp, a nod to the renowned Lotus of Siam in Las Vegas. The interior is designed in dark green tones with mirrored walls, creating an intimate atmosphere. “We’re not aiming for strict authenticity or fusion,” stated Michael Stillman, the company’s chief executive. “Our goal is to convey the essence of the region’s food in a high-end setting.”
Opens Wednesday
Third Floor, 10 Columbus Circle, 212-970-8828, twintailsnyc.com.
Tabe Tomo
After a fire forced this ramen establishment specializing in tsukemen-style noodles to close six months ago, it has now reopened, bringing back its beloved broth that simmers for over 60 hours before being served alongside four varieties of “dry” ramen perfect for dipping. Other ramen options include the rich Jiro-style with thicker noodles, as well as donburi rice bowls, crispy karaage chicken, tempura, takoyaki, and an assortment of small plates guaranteed to delight.
Location
131 Avenue A (St. Marks Place), 646-850-6414, tabetomonyc.com.
