Mastering At-Home Hair Coloring: Tips from Self-Taught Experts

Beauty School: Mastering Hair Color at Home

Beauty School tackles common beauty queries by collaborating with creative individuals who have become experts through their experiences. Subscribe here to receive our insights in your inbox monthly, and feel free to send any questions you may have to tmagazine@nytimes.com.

When it comes to coloring your own hair, the advice often heard is “Don’t do it.” However, many adventurous souls embrace the challenge, despite the horror stories of breakage and brassy hues. Once you’ve mastered the technique, the convenience and creative control can be hard to resist. To gather insights, we reached out to three self-taught experts in the art of at-home hair coloring: Soo Joo Park, a Los Angeles-based model known for frequently changing her salon-bleached hair color; Aliyah’s Interlude, an Atlanta-born music artist and TikTok sensation who has experimented with various shades on both her natural hair and wigs; and Josh Wood, a British colorist whose journey began with dyeing his own hair as a teenager. Their shared wisdom emphasizes understanding your limits and allowing yourself to learn from mistakes.

Soo Joo Park, Model and Musician

Despite the instructions, I prefer to apply dye to dry hair. This method allows for better visibility when placing the color. I use a toothbrush instead of the standard applicator brush for more precision, applying dye to small sections of hair, roughly ½ to ¾ inches thick. I always start at the crown and gradually work my way down.
Wearing gloves is a must. If any dye accidentally touches my skin, I promptly wipe it off using rubbing alcohol or makeup wipes.
I extend the dye application time to 45 minutes. This is longer than the typical half-hour, but I find it necessary for the dye to fully penetrate dry hair. When rinsing, I switch to fresh gloves and wash out the dye while leaning forward in the shower to prevent color from running onto my skin.
I refresh the color every two weeks. My go-to brands include Manic Panic, Adore, and Bleach London, which offers a fantastic color range. Sometimes, I mix two shades for a more personalized result. For an allover pastel tint, I blend a bit of dye into my shampoo or conditioner and let it sit for 15 minutes.
To maintain my hair’s health and vibrancy, I opt for a gentle shampoo. Hairstory’s shampoo is excellent as it hardly lathers, and I use Bleach London’s Beer Mask bi-weekly to keep my hair nourished.

Aliyah’s Interlude, 21, Music Artist

I thrive on experimenting with hair color. I’ve tried shades from red to blonde to pink and back to my natural black. I also started coloring wigs at the age of 18, as it allows me to express myself creatively.
I primarily dye blonde wigs. My favorites come from Alipearl. I utilize a technique called the watercolor method, where I mix semi-permanent hair dye with boiled water in a bowl and dip my wig until I achieve the desired shade. It’s a quick method, and I find the color adheres very well.
For my natural hair, I favor Adore’s semi-permanent colors, particularly Pink Blush 142. However, since my roots grow out quickly, I often use a clarifying shampoo to strip the remaining color before re-dyeing my entire head.
When transitioning from blonde to black, patience is key. The dark dye needs to stay on for an extended period; otherwise, fading can lead to an unwanted greenish hue. To avoid damage, I recommend limiting bleaching sessions to no more than once every six months. During phases of dryness, I rely heavily on SheaMoisture products, including their shampoos, conditioners, and masks.
It’s crucial to find colors that complement your skin tone. Some shades, like bright yellow, can be overwhelmingly vibrant. Nonetheless, I believe that all colors are worth trying!