Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève: A Night of Luxury Watches

The most eagerly awaited evening in the watchmaking industry is fast approaching. On November 13, a remarkable gathering of 57 luxury Swiss watch brands will compete for prestigious accolades at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, an event dedicated to honoring the most extraordinary timepieces of the year. The winners will be unveiled during an exclusive ceremony at Geneva’s Théâtre du Léman, but you can catch all the action live here on Euronews Culture to be among the first to witness the results.

The highlight of the evening will undoubtedly be the coveted Aiguille d’Or, awarded for the best overall creation of 2024. In addition, there are 15 other categories, which encompass men’s, ladies’, sports, mechanical exception, and artistic craft watches. This year marks a significant milestone with the introduction of a new eco-innovation prize, recognizing advancements in sustainability and traceability within the industry.

Style Council: Judging the Best

The CEO of the previous year’s Aiguille d’Or-winning brand holds a position on the judging panel for the subsequent awards. In 2023, the prestigious award was claimed by Audemars Piguet, and its CEO, Ilaria Resta, will be joined by noted historian, author, and journalist Nick Foulkes, who serves as the jury president, alongside 28 industry experts including watchmakers, consultants, journalists, retailers, designers, and collectors.

Notable Competitors

This year, some of the most revered names in watchmaking, such as Breitling, H. Moser & Cie, Zenith, Piaget, and Ulysse Nardin, are vying for the honors. Leading the nominations are Parmigiani Fleurier and Chopard, each with six timepieces in contention. Guido Terreni, CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier, expressed his pride, stating, “It’s something really special. It’s the first time in all the 24 editions that the brand gets six nominations.”

Parmigiani Fleurier is competing in several categories, including ladies’, men’s, calendar and astronomy, chronograph, sports, and a newly introduced category for 2024, time only, which honors classic timepieces featuring two or three hands without complications. Terreni describes this category as the most challenging due to its simplicity in design: “To be iconic with simplicity is a very difficult exercise.” The brand’s Tonda PF Micro-Rotor No Date watch has been nominated in this category, showcasing a 40mm steel and platinum case, a hand guilloché dial in barley grain color, and an automatic micro-rotor movement.

Terreni believes that Parmigiani Fleurier’s success in the nominations stems from its established reputation as a luxury brand characterized by a subtle design philosophy. In an era defined by quiet luxury, this approach allows the brand to stand out: “If you look at our nominations collectively, you can sense the brand identity and the new language of luxury we are introducing, which is less ostentatious yet deeper. This resonates well with collectors and the trade industry.”

Hermès: A Contender in Luxury

Another esteemed brand, Hermès, known primarily for its luxury goods rather than its watches, has been nominated in the ladies’, mechanical exception, and artistic crafts categories. Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger, remarks that while the brand has been crafting watches since 1978, it only began participating in the GPHG Awards in 2011. “Being shortlisted or winning is immensely valuable for us. It helps establish the long-term recognition of Hermès as a legitimate watchmaker,” he explains.

Each of the three nominated timepieces showcases distinct Hermès design elements. The wheels in the movement of the Arceau Duc Attelé are inspired by the wheels of the “duc” horse cart from the Hermès logo, complemented by two horse-shaped hammers at the front. The Arceau Chorus Stellarum draws inspiration from one of the brand’s classic scarves, depicting a skeleton riding a horse. The Hermès Cut, a more straightforward design from a new line, features a bezel cut at the four outer points as a subtle signature, with a unique font created specifically for its numerals.

Dordet expresses that winning the ladies’ category would hold special significance. “The first GPHG we won was in 2011 with our Time Suspended watch in the men’s category. It was a pivotal moment for us, symbolizing Hermès’ philosophy of suspending time. Winning the ladies’ prize 13 years later would feel like destiny.”

Emerging Talents: New Kids on the Block

The GPHG Awards not only highlight established names but also serve as a platform for new and independent brands. SpaceOne, a first-time nominee founded just 18 months ago, is hoping to secure a win in the challenge category. Their Tellerium watch is included in the shortlist, representing the brand’s second collection. “Being nominated is a tremendous honor and a recognition of the hard work our team has put in. We’re incredibly excited and hopeful for a win,” says co-founder Guillaume Laidet, who launched SpaceOne with award-winning watchmaker Theo Auffret.

The challenge category targets watches priced at 3,000 CHF (approximately 3,209 EUR) or below. Laidet emphasizes the importance of affordability in their nomination: “This is the first time a planetarium watch is available at an accessible price. Our aim with SpaceOne is to democratize independent complications that typically retail for over EUR 100,000. We’ve achieved a retail price of 2,900 CHF (around 3,102 EUR) for the Tellerium by developing everything in-house, avoiding outsourcing costs.”

Conclusion: A Celebration of Craftsmanship

Each of the 90 watches nominated for this year’s GPHG represents a unique blend of design, technology, and craftsmanship, making them deserving contenders for victory. However, only one winner can emerge from each category. Be sure to tune in live on the Euronews website on November 13 to discover who will take home the coveted titles.