Exploring the Rich Heritage and Wine Culture of Georgia

Discovering the Heart and Soil of Georgia

Discovering the Heart and Soil of Georgia

In the dimly lit basement of the Georgian National Museum in Tbilisi, I encounter a captivating array of gold burial artifacts that sparkle in the shadows. A lion statuette, its sun-like visage entrusted with guiding the deceased to the afterlife, shines alongside a beautifully crafted beaded necklace embellished with glimmering gold orbs. Across the room, an exquisite amethyst ring inlaid with intricate gold patterns showcases craftsmanship that continues to baffle experts to this day.

This deep-rooted connection to the land is evident not only in archaeology but also in the ancient tradition of Qvevri wine-making, where clay vessels filled with grapes are buried in the earth to ferment. My visit in late September afforded me the opportunity to explore many of Georgia’s national treasures and indulge in copious amounts of its renowned wine. If you wish to immerse yourself in both the history and flavors of this stunning Caucasian nation, here are my highlights.

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What Makes Georgian Wine Unique and Where to Experience It

What Makes Georgian Wine Unique and Where to Experience It

Tbilisi, the historic hub of the Caucasus, is a mesmerizing blend of eastern, medieval, and Soviet architecture. I learned from our guide that Georgia is the birthplace of wine-making, a bold claim supported by wine residues discovered in an 8,000-year-old pottery jar. As we traverse the stunning Gombori Pass into the Kakheti region, our guide Kartlos, founder of Inter Georgia Travel, passionately describes the labor-intensive process of crafting Qvevri wine.

Families dedicate months to nurturing the vines, harvesting grapes, and then allowing them to ferment underground in Qvevris for six months. “It’s like caring for a newborn,” Kartlos explains, emphasizing that a year’s toil culminates in the joy of a guest exclaiming, “wow, what a wine!” This notion of hospitality is woven deep into Georgian culture. “In our belief, if a man produces good wine, he is a good man. A bad man cannot create good wine,” Kartlos shares, underscoring the moral fabric that intertwines with the art of winemaking. Notably, the ancient Qvevri method is recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage; “When you savor Qvevri wine, you’re tasting history,” he adds.

For Georgians, the uniqueness of their wine-making lies not just in its age but in the unbroken lineage of the tradition, persevering even during the Soviet occupation when it had to be practiced largely in secrecy.

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Top Destinations for Wine Tastings in Georgia

Top Destinations for Wine Tastings in Georgia

If you’re seeking a near-spiritual wine tasting experience, Alaverdi Monastery is a must-visit. This stunning Orthodox cathedral, dating back to the 11th century with some elements from the 6th century, is magnificent in its own right. The tranquil interior, illuminated by fragments of colored glass, invites you to explore its ancient cellar where you can sample exquisite varieties such as Saperavi, a robust red, and Rkatsiteli, a honeyed amber wine.

About 30 kilometers away, nestled in Telavi city, lies Shumi Winery, renowned for its extensive wine tasting experience. This winery boasts the largest collection of living vines in the world and is dedicated to restoring old Georgian grape varieties. Visitors can enjoy Qvevri wine tastings alongside engaging activities like grape stomping and traditional ‘shotis puri’ bread-making.

Nearby, Tsinandali Estate Hotel offers a luxurious retreat with amenities like an infinity pool that overlooks the majestic Caucasus Mountains. The estate seamlessly connects to the Chavchavadze Estate, the former residence of the 19th-century prince and poet Aleksandre Chavchavadze, which has been preserved as a museum. Naturally, the museum features a wine cellar where you can revel in more exceptional Georgian wines.

If your travels keep you in Tbilisi, the Tbilisi Wine Museum is another worthwhile stop, where you can indulge in wine and snacks to help cement your newfound viticulture knowledge. Overlooking the city stands the Mother of Georgia statue, holding a bowl of wine in her left hand and a sword in her right. According to Kartlos, this striking figure embodies the essence of the Georgian spirit—generous and warm-hearted, yet fierce when provoked.

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Where to Savor Authentic Georgian Cuisine in Tbilisi

With so much talk of wine, your appetite is bound to wake up for some genuine Georgian cuisine. The culinary offerings are characteristically generous, featuring the indulgently delicious ‘khachapuri’ (cheese-filled bread), the hearty ‘ajapsandali’ vegetable stew, and the satisfying ‘khinkali’ dumplings.

Rigi Restaurant presents a sophisticated setting for a delightful spread of Georgian dishes, cleverly designed to resemble charming streets, each representing different food stations. Another worthy establishment is Barbarestan, which has a captivating backstory: the founder discovered the cookbook of Barbare Jorjadze, a pioneering 19th-century Georgian princess, at a flea market in 2015. The restaurant honors her legacy by using hundreds of her traditional recipes to craft their mouthwatering menu.

For a rooftop garden atmosphere, Keto and Kote is a must-visit, offering another exquisite menu. Don’t miss Stamba Restaurant for a contemporary twist on classic Georgian dishes set in a striking, cavernous interior. Adjacent to Stamba Restaurant is Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, both located within a grand Soviet-era publishing house, where I experienced laid-back luxury during my stay.

This week-long journey in Georgia has ignited a desire to return— to delve deeper into its rich culture, visit more of its countless churches, and seek out new adventures. I’m eager to explore Tbilisi’s expansive botanical gardens, the wildlife of Tusheti, and the scenic night train ride from Tbilisi to Batumi on the coast.

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