Discovering Cornwall: A Journey Through Myth and Modernity
Welcome to T’s monthly travel series, Flocking To, where we explore enchanting destinations that deserve a spot on your travel wish list. Each month, we share insights from frequent visitors and locals, packed with tips to enhance your experience. Subscribe here to receive our updates directly in your inbox, including a weekly roundup of cultural recommendations, monthly beauty guides, and the latest from our print issues. Have any questions? Feel free to reach us at tmagazine@nytimes.com.
Cornwall, located at the craggy southwestern tip of England, is steeped in myth and legend. This captivating region is said to be home to mermaids who lured unsuspecting villagers into the sea and piskies, a mischievous tribe of fairies known to frolic across the moors. The area boasts a rich real-life history, featuring Neolithic standing stones and the iconic Tintagel Castle, a 13th-century fortress perched on the cliffs where King Arthur is believed to have been conceived. It’s no wonder that Cornwall has served as a wellspring of creative inspiration for artists over the centuries.
“Artists have been drawn to Cornwall since the time of [J.M.W.] Turner in the 1800s due to its natural light and breathtaking landscapes,” explains Anne Barlow, director of the Tate St. Ives art gallery. This remote and rural county, situated approximately 250 miles southeast of London, continues to attract a wave of creative talent. However, today’s innovators are more likely to be found working in fashion labels or design agencies rather than painting idyllic seascapes.
Cornwall boasts one of England’s highest concentrations of B Corps—businesses committed to meeting rigorous social and environmental standards—second only to London. This entrepreneurial spirit has inspired many young Cornish natives to return to their roots after completing their studies, opting for the charm of their home county instead of heading to bustling cities like London or Bristol. However, Cornwall’s rising popularity as a vacation hotspot—exacerbated by the Covid pandemic that encouraged locals to explore their own backyards—has driven property prices skyward in many areas. This surge in demand has sparked tensions among residents, leading to congested roads and crowded seaside towns during the peak summer months.
Visit Cornwall in October, and you’ll be greeted by a completely different atmosphere. “The maddening crowds have dissipated, the sea is perfectly warm for swimming, the blackberries are ripe for picking, and the landscape transforms into a canvas of rust-colored hues,” shares Frieda Gormley, co-founder of the homewares brand House of Hackney. It’s also the ideal season for surfing, as Tom Kay from the outdoor clothing brand Finisterre notes: “You start to experience those exhilarating autumn swells.”
Renting a car allows you to easily navigate Cornwall’s stunning peninsula in a single trip. You can take in its wild Atlantic coastline, dotted with rocky headlands and expansive white-sand beaches, as well as its more sheltered southern shores, known for charming fishing villages, sandy coves, and serene estuaries. Don’t miss the dramatic landscapes that lie in between. Even better, lace up your hiking boots and embark on the South West Coast Path, where you’ll find trails adorned with vibrant gorse and heather during this time of year. “It’s incredibly cozy to be out on the cliffs in a brisk wind and then retreat to a quaint pub with a warm, crackling wood-burning stove,” advises Barlow.
Here, Barlow, Gormley, Kay, and chef Jude Kereama, all of whom call Cornwall home, share their favorite spots within this enchanting county.
