Read Your Way Around the World: Shanghai
Welcome to the vibrant and ever-evolving city of Shanghai, a place steeped in transformations and revolutions. From the shaded avenues of the French Concession to the illuminated eaves of the Old City and the serene beauty of the Yu Garden, the city pulses with life. The historic shikumen (stone gate) residential blocks stand in stark contrast to the futuristic skyline of the Pudong district, which towers over the Huangpu River, while the colonial architecture of the Bund evokes a sense of nostalgia. This unique blend of histories and cultures creates a captivating atmosphere in Shanghai, a city that teems with human experiences and stories.
Following the first Opium War in 1842, Shanghai emerged as one of the five designated port cities in China, opening its doors to foreign concessions and enclaves established by British, American, French, and Japanese settlers. This international melting pot gave birth to a distinctive form of Chinese modernity. By the 1920s and ’30s, Shanghai was a whirlwind of cosmopolitan energy, often referred to as China’s equivalent of Jazz Age Paris or New York City. The era produced iconic figures such as the Seven Great Singing Stars, celebrated film stars like Ruan Lingyu and Jin Yan, and literary luminaries such as Eileen Chang.
As I walk through this vibrant city, where my mother was born, I am often swept up in the nostalgia of a bygone Shanghai. Although my mother left in 1966, the city has undergone dramatic changes over the decades. Yet, the scents and landscapes of this ultramodern metropolis still ignite my senses and fuel my imagination. Delving into the literature of Shanghai allows me to navigate both its rich past and its unfolding future, filled with an ever-deepening sense of mystery, intrigue, and boundless abundance.
What books should I bring with me?
A slim volume of poetry is always a delightful companion when traveling light. “A Summer Day in the Company of Ghosts” by Wang Yin, a poet hailing from Shanghai, encapsulates decades of his literary journey. Wang is part of a group of poets who emerged in the wake of the Misty Poets movement, which gained prominence following Deng Xiaoping’s economic reforms in 1978. Another poetic gem, “There Is Still Singing in the Afterlife,” is a 2020 chapbook by JinJin Xu, a poet and visual artist based in Shanghai, featuring poignant reflections on family, inheritance, and history, many of which are set against the backdrop of her native city.
Aube Rey Lescure’s debut novel, “River East, River West,” intricately weaves together the stories of a teenager attending an international school in Shanghai and her landlord-turned-stepfather. Similarly, “Years of Red Dust,” a collection of short stories by Qiu Xiaolong, portrays the lives of ordinary residents in a traditional longtang neighborhood as it undergoes significant transformations from 1949 to the early 2000s. In a comparable vein, the 1995 novel “The Song of Everlasting Sorrow” by Wang Anyi presents a sweeping portrait of a woman’s life over four decades in Shanghai, beginning with her childhood in a longtang. For a journey into the past, “The Sing-Song Girls of Shanghai,” a novel penned by Han Bangqing in 1892 and later translated into English by Eileen Chang, offers a rich glimpse into the city’s historical narrative. Indeed, any work by Eileen Chang would be a splendid addition to your reading list for this trip.
What literary destination would you recommend?
A visit to Changde Apartment, the former residence of Eileen Chang, is an absolute must for any literary enthusiast. This Art Deco-style building, constructed in 1936, became home to Chang when she moved there with her mother and aunt. Although she left to pursue her studies in Hong Kong, she returned in 1942 to the apartment, where she penned many of her most celebrated works. Exploring this literary landmark provides a profound connection to the rich tapestry of Shanghai’s cultural and literary heritage.