Testing the Limits of Noise at Tao Downtown
When I set out to book a table for two at Tao Downtown, I paused at the section asking if I had any special requests. I certainly did, but I found myself second-guessing how to phrase it. Would I be the first patron in history to specifically ask for a table in the midst of chaos? This was not your typical request, yet my curiosity drove me to make it.
My motivation stemmed from a recent exploration into whether a simple pair of earbuds could enhance my ability to hear and be heard in a bustling restaurant filled with blasting music and animated conversations. To truly test this theory, I needed to immerse myself in a notoriously loud dining environment—something I usually try to steer clear of.
Last month, Apple made headlines by announcing plans to introduce new software that would allow its AirPods Pro 2 earbuds to function as over-the-counter hearing aids, tailored for individuals with mild to moderate hearing loss. Users will have the option to take a straightforward exam on their devices or upload results from a professional audiologist.
What might surprise you is that AirPods Pro 2 already possess features that enhance conversational clarity. One setting amplifies the voices of those nearby, while another reduces distracting background noise, making it easier to engage in conversation. Competing brands like Sony, Samsung, Beyerdynamic, and Soundcore also provide similar functions aimed at facilitating dialogue in noisy settings. However, Apple’s AirPods dominate the market, which is why I decided to wear a pair during my visits to Tao and several other Manhattan eateries notorious for their raucous atmospheres.
Throughout my 12 years as a restaurant critic, few topics have generated as much feedback as noise levels in dining establishments, and none have ignited as much passionate debate. When I confessed my partiality for lively restaurants—up to a certain decibel—I encountered significant backlash from readers. Many expressed their outrage, not just at my admission but directed towards the restaurants themselves.
And I understand their perspective. Prolonged exposure to loud environments can lead to hearing damage. Even at moderate volumes, struggling to hear fellow diners can be incredibly frustrating. The situation worsens when one finds themselves constantly repeating themselves or raising their voice, resembling a heated argument. This struggle is particularly challenging for those with any degree of hearing loss. Overwhelmed by an incessant barrage of background noise, most diners eventually succumb to a sense of powerlessness, simmering in silence.
