A Journey Through Kyushu: Where Nature Meets Heritage
If I gazed for too long, the glossy, petrified trunk of the massive tree seemed to thrum with vitality, sending waves of energy through the ceiling and cascading down into the walls, past the delicate washi paper screens. “The house breathes,” Akihiro Tokunaga, the owner of this remarkable structure, remarked, pulling me from my reverie. “You can sense that this tree is still alive.”
Approximately 140 years ago, workers on Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four primary islands, immersed a colossal felled tree in the ocean for a full year. Once it dried, this solidified trunk became the central pillar of a house, with the entire structure evolving around it. Despite this architectural marvel, the home—along with 140 years of forgotten possessions within its walls—faced imminent demolition to make way for a public parking lot. Responding to an online call from local activists advocating for the preservation of this historical gem, Mr. Tokunaga and his wife, Yuki, stepped in, purchasing the house and lovingly transforming it into a café named Calali.
The elegant, five-tiered Karatsu Castle stands majestically atop a hill, overlooking the serene expanse of Karatsu Bay.
Cultural treasures on Kyushu surface almost as frequently as the myriad vending machines dotting the streets of Japan. I relocated to the island to delve into research on energy development and the pressing issue of depopulation, and my explorations throughout the region unveiled the resilience of residents as they uphold local traditions amidst modern challenges.
Among Japan’s four main islands, Kyushu is the second smallest, following Shikoku. Its seven prefectures boast diverse landscapes sculpted by over 70 volcanoes. With fertile soil, vibrant coastlines, and rolling grasslands framed by prominent mountains, Kyushu is home to some of the country’s finest food ingredients. The residents here enjoy a high quality of life, thanks in part to access to world-renowned hot springs, a rich tapestry of biodiversity, delectable cuisine, and a generally more relaxed pace of living.
Nevertheless, Kyushu grapples with its own set of challenges. The convenience of technology is reshaping age-old routines that once harmonized seamlessly with the natural rhythms of the seasons. A declining birthrate, coupled with an ongoing youth exodus to bustling metropolises like Tokyo, has led to quieter, increasingly deserted towns. An aging population struggles to preserve seasonal festivals and traditional practices that could draw in tourism and invigorate local pride. One poignant manifestation of this situation is the forgotten traditional homes that still hold the warmth of familial love, waiting to be cherished once again.