Exploring Bryan Washington’s Cheese Enchiladas
Credit: Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Cyd Raftus McDowell.
Good morning! A couple of years back, Bryan Washington penned an evocative piece for The New York Times Magazine, celebrating the nostalgia and comfort of cheese enchiladas (above). His words took me on a culinary journey, reminding me of a remarkable few days I once spent in Houston, immersed in the city’s vibrant Tex-Mex culture and indulging in the rich flavors of enchiladas.
During that week, I savored an array of delicious dishes at various local establishments. My culinary adventure included visits to Teotihuacan on Irvington Boulevard, one of the beloved outposts of Molina’s Cantina, the iconic Original Ninfa’s on Navigation, and the Ninfa’s apostate El Tiempo Cantina next door. I also dined at Spanish Flowers and the well-known Sylvia’s, each place offering its own unique spin on Tex-Mex cuisine.
My quest for the perfect enchilada brought me to El Real Tex-Mex on Westheimer Street, where I had the privilege of learning to make enchiladas under the guidance of the Tex-Mex expert and restaurateur, Robb Walsh. Together, we crafted a variety of enchiladas: enchiladas con carne, chicken enchiladas drizzled with salsa verde, and, of course, cheese enchiladas slathered with rich chili gravy. This experience ignited a newfound appreciation for the wonders of Velveeta, as I discovered how melty and delightful processed cheese could be when combined with Cheddar for added depth of flavor.
As Bryan beautifully articulated, “Enchiladas are warm hugs, enveloped in tortillas and blanketed in sauce.” He captured the essence of anticipation that comes with the very mention of the word “enchiladas.” The mere sound of it — enchiladas! — evokes a sense of comfort, suggesting that something wonderful is just around the corner. In those moments, it feels like everything (or at least the next 15 minutes) could indeed turn out fine.
Featured Recipe
Cheese Enchiladas
