Credit

Credit…Linda Xiao for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Megan Hedgpeth.

Nancy Brewer, the passionate owner and talented baker of the Kitchen Shop in Grand Coteau, Louisiana, experienced a profound moment of clarity during her time in culinary school. While she was diligently practicing the art of making pâte sucrée, she was struck by the realization that this delicate dough was remarkably similar to the one her grandmother used for her beloved sweet pies. It boasts a unique crumb and texture that falls somewhere between a traditional short crust and a classic pie dough, creating a delightful category all its own.

Nostalgia often serves as the catalyst for many excellent decisions made in kitchens and bake shops, as I’ve come to observe in my culinary journey. However, the other crucial factors that influence these choices primarily revolve around the quality of the ingredients used.

Recipe: Gâteau Nana

Years ago, I had the privilege of working in a restaurant that adhered to a strict philosophy: If an ingredient didn’t originate within a 50-mile radius of our kitchen, it simply didn’t make the cut for our menu. This guideline, while noble in intent, presented its own set of challenges — especially considering the South’s limited availability of certain products, such as fine wines, olive oils, or exotic vanilla beans. Nevertheless, the purpose behind this approach was to champion local vendors and cultivate a demand that would, in time, bolster the local supply chain.

Eventually, if memory serves me right, we adjusted our policy from the rigid “50 miles” to a more flexible “the South,” which opened up a rich tapestry of ingredients and flavors to explore.

Incorporating local treasures like cornmeal, sorghum (both syrup and grain), pawpaws, pecans, buttermilk, sassafras, and sweet potatoes became the driving forces behind transforming classic French techniques into dishes that truly sang with Southern spirit. These ingredients not only defined our culinary identity but also celebrated the rich agricultural heritage of the region.