The Quest for Protected Status for Pie and Mash
A new campaign has been initiated to bestow protected status upon one of Britain’s most traditional, albeit visually unappealing, dishes: pie and mash. For those unfamiliar with this humble fare, it typically consists of nondescript minced beef pies served alongside generously dolloped mashed potatoes and an abundant drizzle of bright green sauce. This vibrant topping, known as parsley sauce or liquor, might not win any aesthetic awards, but if you can overlook the presentation, the dish offers a surprisingly delightful flavor.
Originating from the bustling Docks of London, pie and mash is considered a true “Cockney classic.” Traditionally, it is served with jellied eels—a nod to the times when these fish thrived in the heavily polluted waters of London during the Victorian era, providing a rare source of seafood for the locals.
Richard Holden, a former Conservative minister, alongside producers of the dish, has formally approached the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (DEFRA) regarding an application for Traditional Speciality Guaranteed (TSG) status. As the current MP for Basildon and Billericay, Holden has reached out to 40 fellow MPs to garner support for this initiative. DEFRA has indicated that a successful application for TSG status will necessitate a consensus on the recipe that producers would need to adhere to in order to use the name in the future. They also mentioned that they would evaluate the case once a formal application is submitted.
During a recent Westminster Hall debate, Holden passionately stated, “We are seeking recognition to safeguard our heritage and promote this dish both nationally and internationally.” He added, “The pie, mash, and liquors are crafted from authentic family-owned recipes that have been treasured and passed down through generations like valuable heirlooms.” He drew a comparison, suggesting that in countries like Italy or France, such culinary traditions would be immediately recognized as worthy of celebration and preservation.
While this assertion might raise a few eyebrows—even provoking laughter from Italian and French readers who may find themselves chuckling at the article’s header image—it underscores a valid point: every culture has its culinary hill to die on. Holden highlighted the disparity in protected food statuses, noting that France boasts around 800 foods with such recognition, Italy not far behind, while the UK lags with fewer than 100.
- Other British staples already enjoying TSG status include:
- Bramley apple pies
- Melton Mowbray Pork Pies
- Cornish pasties
Holden remarked to the press, “I encourage everyone to step out, sample that pie and mash, and to the minister, I sincerely hope we can achieve this status, allowing us to proudly declare ‘Yes, Pie Minister!’”
While British cuisine may not have always been celebrated for its visual appeal, the indomitable spirit of British humor and charm continues to shine through.
