A Culinary Dream in Brooklyn
When Samaya Boueri Ziade relocated to Park Slope, Brooklyn, in 2009, she was struck by the absence of authentic Lebanese restaurants that evoked the flavors of her hometown, Tabarja, a picturesque coastal village just north of Beirut. This gap inspired her to consider the bold idea of opening her own eatery.
She envisioned a charming space adorned with creamy white walls and vibrant Mediterranean blue accents. The menu would feature a delightful array of cherished Lebanese staples such as hummus, tabbouleh, and kibbe, while also incorporating lesser-known regional specialties, enriched with the sweetness of pomegranate molasses, the tang of sumac, and the aromatic notes of allspice. A serene garden would flourish with a fig tree, roses, and grapevines, allowing her to gather fresh grape leaves in the summer for stuffing with a savory mixture of chickpeas and rice.
Yet, the Lebanon of her memories feels increasingly elusive today, marred by years of internal conflicts, economic turmoil, and the recent devastation from Israel’s military actions against Hezbollah. Despite these hardships, Ms. Boueri Ziade held onto her dream with unwavering determination. She balanced raising two children with the occasional hosting of Levantine pop-up dining experiences throughout the city.
As she immersed herself in the vibrant culture of Brooklyn, she found her identity evolving; the borough’s unique style, energy, and resilience began to blend with her inherent Lebanese roots. By the time she opened Sawa in April, alongside her brother George Boueri, she had transformed her approach to the culinary landscape.
Sawa embodies this remarkable evolution, and its menu reflects this fusion beautifully. While it remains deeply rooted in Lebanese cuisine, it embraces a seasonal, temperate-zone flair, infused with a touch of hipster cool and the unmistakable grit of New York. It is a culinary journey that captures the essence of Beirut through the lens of Brooklyn, highlighting locally sourced ingredients.
This unique balance is exemplified in the fattoush salad, where locally sourced Little Gem lettuces and chargrilled nectarines harmonize with traditional ingredients like red onions, cucumbers, purslane, and crispy pita. The result is a vibrant and exuberant celebration of the dish, showcasing the innovative spirit of Sawa and its commitment to delivering an unforgettable dining experience.